Blanquette de veau (veal stew) is what I call the mother of all French dishes. It’s the ultimate French home cooked meal, so traditional, bourgeois yet simple. Ever so often, when I go to the butcher, I have a natural inclination to say, ‘Michel, prepare me some veal for a little blanquette de veau please’. I like to have the necessary ingredients available at all times, because blanquette de veau is like family.

Too seldom on restaurant menus, this comforting stew with a creamy sauce is a grand classic. It holds a special place in my kitchen. There is no doubt that one of the secret ingredients to a good meal is a Proustian liaison. During the holidays, my grandmother would make this dish on Sunday nights, so soothing and heartwarming. The evenings would end with a card game called ‘Jeu des sept familles‘ along with a cup of camomile tea.

Blanquette is a stew consisting of light meat or seafood in a white sauce. Served with rice, tagliatelle or steamed potatoes, the sauce covers everything like the coziest blanket. The powerful cloves, just the four of them, play such an important role. They perfume the blanquette de veau and turn it into an unforgettable tasting stew. I once read that clove, originally cultivated in Indonesia, brings luck into the family home. No wonder this stew is one of our family’s favourite.

Ingredients (serves 4-6):

1 kg/ 2 & 1/2 pounds veal shoulder (cut into 5 cm/ 2 inch cubes)
2 carrots (sliced into chunky sticks)
2 leeks (sliced, white part only)
1 small onion
2 garlic cloves (sliced)
2 small shallots (sliced – keep one half full)
1 celery stalk (sliced)
4 cloves
250 g/ 1/2 pound white mushrooms
150 g/ 1/3 pound pearl onions (peeled)
4 tbsp white wine (optional)
30 g/ 2 tbsp butter (or olive oil, for frying the mushrooms)
Salt and pepper, for seasoning

For the bouquet garni:
A bunch of thyme
One bay leaf
A few sprigs of parsley

For the sauce:
A few squeezes of fresh lemon juice (half a lemon will do)
160 ml/ 2/3 cup crème fraîche
40 g/ 1/3 cup plain flour
60 g/ 1/4 cup butter
2 egg yolks

Chop the carrots into chunky sticks, coarsely slice the onion, shallots, leeks, celery and garlic.  Keep half a shallot and stick the cloves in.  Make a simple bouquet garni with a few springs of thyme, parsley and bay leaf (tie with some twine or wrap/ tie in cheesecloth).

Blanch the veal in boiling salted water for 1-2 minutes.  Skim scum from surface. Add the onion, shallots, garlic, bouquet garni and all the other vegetables (as well as the half shallot with cloves). Add the wine.  Bring to a soft boil for 2 minutes. Season with salt. Cover and cook on a low heat for 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Remove all the meat, bouquet garni, vegetables and set aside.  Cover to keep them warm.

Prepare a roux sauce.  Melt butter in a small pan, add flour and stir continuously for a couple of minutes until the sauce thickens. Pour the roux sauce into the blanquette pot.  Mix well with a whisk and cook for 5 minutes on a low heat, until the stew sauce starts to slightly thicken.  Return the meat and vegetables to the pot.  Cover and cook for 15 minutes on a low heat.

Slice mushrooms coarsely, peel the pearl onions, and fry together in 2 tbsp butter.  Drizzle with lemon and let the juices reduce for 30 seconds.  Add to the blanquette.

In a bowl, mix crème fraîche, a squeeze of lemon juice and whisk in the egg yolks. Add a ladle or two of the blanquette’s sauce, stir well and pour into the blanquette de veau. Do not boil or the egg and cream will curdle.  Garnish with fresh chopped parsley.  Serve immediately with rice.

Médoc is looking more and more like Venice these days.  The rain hasn’t stopped for days, we now have a pond in our garden, which is quite fun for the kids and the dogs I suppose.  I wouldn’t mind a bit of snow, a peaceful change of creamy colors and scenery, but that won’t really happen here.

Driving through the beautiful châteaux of Pauillac and Saint Julien yesterday, I came home with an appetite for intensity and decadence.  Something sweet and elegant.  Bad weather can justify any of my cravings, so I made this extra rich chocolate tart, with a mascarpone vanilla bean cream and a salted butter caramel sauce.  Let’s go all the way with this grown-up treat.  It is my cure to these cold and wet winter months.  Who doesn’t want a tart filled with all the necessary (and natural) mood enhancing ingredients?  Chocolate makes you feel better, stimulated, happy and even in love.  How wonderful.  Eating this tart is my joie de vivre.

After blind baking the pie crust,  you simply need to leave your tart in the oven with the heat switched off for 15 minutes.  I usually bake this tart is a small pan (18cm/7 inch – 2 cm/ 0.8 inch depth) – it’s so rich that a small slice will do.  Enjoy!

My baby daughter Gaïa dipped her fingers in the tart!

 
Ingredients:

For the pastry: (this recipe will make 2 tart of 18cm/7 inch width  – you can either divide the measures in 2 or simply keep excess pastry in the freezer for up to 3 months)

250 g/2 cups plain flour
150 g/ 2/3 cups butter (softened at room temperature)
30 g/ ¼ cup sugar
60 g icing/ ½ cup confectioner’s sugar
80 g/ ½ cup ground almonds
1 egg
1 pinch of salt

1) In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients together until the mixture forms a homogenous dough. Shape into a ball, wrap in cling film and place in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
2) On a floured parchment covered surface, roll out the dough to fit your tart pan.  Line your tart pan, leave 1/4 inch/ 1 cm overhang.  Gently press the edges of pastry against the interior of the tart pan ring and prick the base with a fork. Use a piece of leftover dough to press down the edges (this trick will prevent any over-stretching or finger marks).
3) Cover with cling film and place in the freezer for a least an hour (the longer the better).  This is a good trick to prevent shrinking.
4) Cut out a piece of parchment paper and line the bottom of the tart.  Place beans/marbles/any oven proof weight and blind bake in a preheated oven 180°C/ 350°F for 10 minutes.  Remove weight and parchment paper and bake for a further 3-4 minutes, or until slightly golden.  Set aside

For the chocolate filling:

120 ml/ 1/2 cup double cream/ heavy cream
60 ml/1/4 cup  full cream milk
150 g/ 1/3 pound dark chocolate
15 g / 1 tbsp salted butter
1 egg

Looking out the window today, all I could see was rain, rain and more rain. It’s one of those January days where you want to be creative. Dazed by the weather, I was suddenly transported to Italy, reminiscing on past holidays. Rome is one of my favourite romantic cities and I was taken back to the time my husband and I had a beautiful honeymoon there. One hot evening, after a long day of taking in the city, that moment at dusk when you don’t know if you should go back to the hotel and change or go straight to a restaurant, we stumbled onto a little hidden Piazza with an unremarkable looking winebar. As it was early we were the only guests. We ordered two glasses of Brunello and asked if they had anything to serve it with, some salty little snacks perhaps. And they sure did. The most gorgeous tartlets with porcini mushrooms, onion, fennel (I think). Somehow these little tartlets popped up in my mind today and I made a version of them for the two of us. For a brief moment we were back in Rome. Food really can take you places.

Ingredients (serves 4):
4-5 Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and sliced into rondelles (round slices)
1 fennel, sliced
1 onion, sliced
1 garlic clove, sliced finely
450 g/ 1 pound cèpes/porcini mushrooms (I used the cèpes I picked and froze this fall. You can use any of favourite mushrooms/dried mushrooms)
1 glass of red wine
A handful of chopped fresh parsley
1 roll puff pastry (230 g/ 1/2 pound) or you can make your home-made version here
Olive oil (for frying)
30 g/ 2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 slices of country bread (discard the crust, place the bread in a food processor to get breadcrumbs)
Parmesan shavings
Coarse salt and black pepper

Peel Jerusalem artichokes, slice them into rondelles/round slices. Slice fennel coarsely. In a frying pan, heat 1 tbsp olive oil, fry the vegetables on a medium heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring frequently. Season with coarse salt and pepper. The vegetables should be cooked yet on the crunchy side.

Preheat the oven to 180 °C/ 350°F.
Prepare the pastry base. Cut out 4 circles with a pastry cutter (I use a bowl to draw the circles) of approx 10-12 cm (3-5 inches). Prick pastry with a fork all over, place on a parchment-lined baking tray, and cover with a another piece of parchment paper. To avoid them to puff up too much, place another baking tray on top (or any rectangle shaped cake tin, grill etc) for 10 minutes. Then remove the parchment paper with the added weight and bake them bare for another 6-7 minutes, or until golden.

While the pastry is in the oven, heat some olive oil and start frying the chopped onion and garlic for 5 minutes on a medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and continue frying (add a bit of olive oil if it is too dry) until all the ingredients are golden and slightly crunchy. Set aside.
Chop the mushrooms finely, save 2 or 3 full mushrooms to garnish in the end. In a frying pan, heat 1 tbsp olive oil, fry the mushrooms for 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper, add red wine and leave to reduce for about 2 minutes. Set aside. Fry the remaining mushrooms (coarsely chopped) for a few minutes in 1 tbsp butter.
When the pastry is ready, garnish with the red wine mushrooms, followed by the Jerusalem artichokes and fennel, a few coarsely chopped mushrooms. Return to oven for 2 minutes, just to reheat slightly. Garnish with fresh parsley, a small pinch of coarse salt and parmesan shavings. Serve immediately.

There are days when I just don’t know what to make for lunch or dinner. One thing I know for sure is that whatever it is, I will most likely add red wine and butter to the meal. These two ingredients will turn anything into a special something. It’s the sauce, the gravy, the juices that make everything taste better. For me, this is the essence of French cuisine. And the fresh produce of course. With good quality ingredients and a good sauce, nothing can go wrong.

Since I have been living in Médoc, it has become a habit of mine to cycle around. I enjoy buying my daily baguette and groceries, taking the scenic route through the forest. It is so rewarding to look at all the peaceful surroundings, saying bonjour to the local sheep, donkeys, horses and cows. It is often during these bicycle trips that I get inspired for a dish. Last Friday, I came back home with a big pack of sausages from my local charcuterie. Their sausages are of exceptional quality, faite maison (home-made). I love a good comforting bangers & mash meal, but I am not always in the mood to fry a dozen sausages, especially around lunch time. That’s why I cook them in the oven. It’s nice and easy, and you get an excellent gravy as a bonus.

Roast sausages with fennel & red wine gravy

Ingredients: (serves 4)
12 good quality pork sausages (or any good quality meat sausages of your choice)
1 large fennel bulb, coarsely sliced
1 large onion, coarsely sliced
240 ml/ 1 cup red wine
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp mustard
A few sprigs of fresh thyme
Coarse salt & black pepper, for seasoning

Preheat oven to 180°C/ 350°F
In a small bowl, mix olive oil and mustard. Place sausages in a baking dish, drizzle olive oil and mustard – mix well. Let the sausages cook in the oven for 20 minutes, add fennel, onions, thyme, salt and pepper (salt very lightly as the sausages and mustard are already salty). Cook for a further 25 minutes, stirring the pan halfway.  Add the red wine and butter, and cook for a further 10-12 minutes, until the wine has reduced and the sauce has become slightly thicker. Serve with mashed potatoes.

Today’s lunch was all about indulging. For me January is a month of promise and possibility but often it is also wet and cold, so what better way to sizzle it up than with a hot peppery steak? When you add an exquisite cognac cream sauce and pommes allumettes french fries, you’ve reached pure happiness. That’s what matters, really. After all, there’s nothing wrong with making yourself happy. And we all need the extra energy.

These days I find myself longing for all my favourite dishes. Is it the cold weather inspiring my appetite? My food desires are meaty, tasty, hot and succulent. Just like the confit de canard. In my Paris days, we’d frequently go to Bistrot Paul Bert (8 Rue Paul Bert, 75011 Paris), especially on Friday nights. So convivial and fun. Their black pepper steak is excellent (and so is their Paris-Brest!). These kind of meals simply make my week-end.

This recipe is so easy and beautiful to make. I love coating the beef with the crushed peppercorns, it looks like a little work of art. The taste of the sauce is so powerful, so rich in flavours, especially with the slight sweetness of the cognac blended in the cream. My husband prefers the steak without the cream, I, on the other hand, want three extra servings of sauce. The fries are delicate and refined, just how I like them. This is my version of a happy meal.

Black pepper steak with cognac cream sauce and pommes allumettes.

Ingredients (serves 2):
2 beef filets mignons (tenderloin beef 150 g-230 g per person/ approx 1/3 to 1/2 pound – depending on your appetite)
1-2 tbsp unsalted butter
25-35 ml/ 2-3 tbsp cognac
45-55 ml/ 3-4 tbsp crème fraîche
60 ml/ 1/4 cup beef stock
Coarse salt & coarse black pepper (you can use a mortar & pestle and coarsely crush black peppercorns – enough to cover steak entirely)
2-3 tbsp peanut oil (for frying)

For the pommes allumettes:
3-4 large potatoes (slice into chunky match stick size)
Peanut oil (for frying)

For the steak:
Season the steak with salt and enough pepper to entirely cover the meat all over. Heat the peanut oil in a frying pan, and fry the steaks 3-4 minutes on each side on a medium heat (or less depending on how you like your steak’s cuisson/cooking). Set aside, cover and keep warm. In the same pan, scrape off unwanted residue and excess oil (leave as much pepper as possible). Add the beef stock and cook on a medium heat – bring to a soft boil, add cognac and reduce for 2-3 minutes, until the sauce starts to thicken slightly. Add a bit more black pepper if you like it hot. Add the butter.  Remove from heat and add 3-4 tbsp crème fraîche (or sour cream). Serve steak with cream sauce and fries.

For the pomme allumettes (matchstick fries):
Peel and slice potatoes into matchstick size (1/4 inch thick). Rinse the sliced potatoes in a large bowl of cold water and pat dry. Heat the peanut oil to 180°C/ 350°F. Fry the potatoes in batches (this is very important otherwise the oil will bubble over) for 3-4 minutes, until golden. Using a slotted spoon, remove fries from the oil and leave to drain on paper towels. To keep them warm, place on a parchment-lined baking sheet in a 180°C/350°F preheated oven (don’t leave them in too long, it’s just to keep them warm for a few minutes before serving). Sprinkle with coarse salt before serving.

Confit de canard (duck confit) is one of my ‘can’t live without’ dishes.  If I am in a bistrot, I will almost certainly order it, and it’s the first dish I prepare for my friends when they come for a stay.  It’s so French, so tasty, crispy, served with roast potatoes, salad and a good bottle of Médoc wine.   I can’t think of a better way to say ‘welcome’.

When I first started this blog last April, I posted a simple version of confit de canard.   The (pre-salted) legs were cooked in the oven up to two hours, along with potatoes and thyme.  It was really good, turned out crispy as the duck fat does all the good work.  It’s a dish I often make, and as it is one of my all time favorites, I wanted to share the version I like most – it’s still simple, just a few more hours of preparations. The result is a more unctuous meat.  Confit means ‘preserved’.  The preserving is done in duck fat in which the duck is gently cooked.  It is then stored in the fat, and you can either sauté or roast in the oven.

Light up some candles, play lovely French music – no matter where you live,  you’ll have a bit of France on your plate.

Christmas is finally over.

Confit de canard (duck confit) recipe:

Ingredients (serves 4):
4 duck legs
1 large jar of duck fat (enough to cover the duck legs entirely)
Lots of coarse sea salt (fleur de sel)
Potatoes, sliced (count 3 medium sized ones per person)
3 garlic cloves, sliced in half
A few sprigs of fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
Black pepper

Cover the duck legs with a generous amount of ‘fleur de sel’ and make sure to rub it in. Cover with cling film and leave in your fridge overnight.
When ready, take out the duck legs and rinse them in cold water. Pat dry with kitchen towel. In a large pot, melt the jar of duck fat and cook the duck legs at a steady temperature for 2 hours (approx. 70-80 degrees celsius). Take the duck legs aside and drain the duck fat through a sieve. Return duck legs to the drained fat and leave to cool. When cooled, keep a layer of fat on the legs (approx 1.5 cm/ 1/2 inch)
How to prepare them:
1) You roast them. They have to be slightly crispy and golden. I always add a bay leaf, fresh thyme, 3 garlic cloves (sliced in half) and sliced potatoes (see photos – count 3 medium potatoes per person). Cook in a preheated oven 200°C/400°F for 25-30 minutes, depending on oven strength.
2) You can also sauté the duck legs in a frying pan until crispy and golden on each side. Sprinkle with fresh thyme towards the end.

Ps: Duck fat is healthy for you!

Gertrud when she was a puppy.

This Sunday most of France will be feasting on the traditional king’s cake, called galette des rois in French.  It is made of golden buttery puff pastry filled with a delicious almond paste filling, and you can find so many versions with cream, fruits or chocolate.  This tradition is to mark the feast of Epiphany, when the three wise men brought gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the baby Jesus.  For others, it’s simply the end of the Christmas festivities.

The Christmas tree has been looking glorious throughout the holidays, but it had started to fade and couldn’t carry the decorations anymore.   It was time to wrap the ornaments up.  It’s always a symbolic moment for me, as I know that next time I unwrap them a whole year will have gone by.  So many events and surprises to look forward to.

I just love these special occasions linked with festive treats.  Last month, I made a beetroot tart to match my Christmas mood, today I made the king’s cake.  There has been excitement and tension in the air.  Who will find the fève and get the crown?  There is always a hidden fève, traditionally a bean, or a porcelain figurine in the king’s cake, the lucky person who finds it gets to wear the crown.  Thou shalt be the king for a day!  Luckily, we will be having the galette des rois several times in the next few days – so everyone will get to be a king.  How can anyone resist all those golden king’s cakes?  You can’t miss them, as they are everywhere these days.

While living in Paris, we had so much choice for galette des rois.  The fancy ones at Ladurée, the delicious ones at my local patissier Stéphane Secco in the 7th, the exquisite ones at Pierre Hermé.  I always had a soft spot for Ladurée, mainly because of the beautiful figurines they hide in the cakes.  We have built up a quite a little collection of fèves, preciously storing them in a treasure box.  The kids love to take a peek once in a while, gazing at their minuscule cake trophies.  Each one tells a story and fills our lives with wonderful memories.

The king’s cake I baked today was divine.  It is so simple to make, apart from the puff pastry which takes a bit of time, but well worth it.  If you are not in the mood to make your own puff pastry, just buy two puff pastry sheets.

We had a little fun with our dogs today!  They had no cake, but we played a game and the winner took the crown … then tore it.

Have a lovely week-end!

King’s cake (Galette des rois)

Ingredients:

250 g/ 2 cups plain flour, sifted

1/2 tsp salt

50 g/1/4 cup butter (cut into cubes, at room temperature)

125 ml water (at room temperature)/ 1/2 cup water

250 g/ 1 cup unsalted butter (at room temperature)

In a large bowl, mix sifted flour with butter, water and salt.  Mix gently until you a get a ball-shaped dough.  Slice a cross on top of the ball, 2 cm/ 0.7 inchdeep.  Wrap in cling film and store in the refrigerator for 30 minutes..

Place butter block on a piece of cling film, cover, and use a rolling-pin to flatten the butter into a 14-15cm/ 5-6 inches square. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

By following these instructions, you should be able to achieve a delicious puff pastry.

1) On a slightly floured and clean surface, place the ball-shaped dough and roll out each side from the cross, as if you were opening the ball like a flower.  Roll into a large square shape, approx. 25-30 cm/ 9-10 inches each sides.

2) Place the flattened butter in the center, and bring each corner of the dough to the center to wrap and cover the butter.

3) Start rolling, being careful not to squeeze out the butter.  Roll to an even rectangle shape.

4) Fold into three equal sides, as if you were folding a towel (both sides bring to center)

5) Turn the folded dough once clockwise and repeat step 3, 4 and 5.

6)Wrap in cling film and leave to rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

7) Repeat steps 3, 4 and 5 four more times.  The idea is to fold the dough and roll into sheets 6 times.  When finished your dough is ready!

For the almond paste filling:

80 g/ 1/3 cup butter

1 tbsp rum (optional)

2 eggs

120 g/ 2/3 cup ground almonds

100 g/ 2/3 cup  granulated sugar

Whisk sugar and eggs together until light and fluffy.  In another bowl, melt butter and mix with ground almonds and rum.  Ad the egg mixture to the almond mixture and mix well.  Set aside.

Assembling the king’s cake:

Roll out the dough on a slightly floured clean surface.  Use a pastry cutter and cut out two circles. (I used a standard plate to cut out the discs).  Place on a baking tray lined with parchment paper.  Prick the base pastry with a fork all over.  Place the almond filling one of the circle pastry sheet and leave a rim of 3 cm.  Brush the rim with egg wash.  Insert (and hide!) the  small porcelain figurine in the filling.  Cover with the second circle pastry sheet, and press and seal sheets together using your thumb. You can use a round-tip knife (or the other end of a fork) and press markings all around the rim to create a nice fish.  Using the back of a knife, draw a mandala style figure with leaves, or any of your favourite patterns (criss-crossed lines etc.).  Brush with egg wash and place in the refrigerator for up to an hour.

When ready, brush one final time with egg wash, take a small stick and prick the center of the cake (so that the pastry doesn’t puff up too much).

Bake in a 180°C/ 350°F preheated oven for 25-30 minutes depending on oven strength.

Serve warm.

To feast on fine delicacies, drink champagne and be merry – that’s how I want my end of year dinner to be. New year’s eve is the perfect time to shine, looking back on the year, starting a new fresh one with a few good (I hope!) resolutions.

I especially love week-end family lunches. Everyone’s appetite is more enthusiastic, spending hours at the table if we want. These days, every meal is an occasion, calling for more refined treats. Chestnuts, guinea fowl, morel mushrooms, eggs, rosemary, shallots, apples, prunes, armagnac and a dash of black truffles – those were the ingredients I used for yesterday’s déjeuner. So simply festive! All the colours and scents were delightful, I enjoyed every moment cooking the meal, with Gertrude by my side. I love using armagnac in the kitchen, or any good brandy, as it really enhances all the flavors, adding depth exactly where it is needed. Pure palate-warming satisfaction.

This year, my greatest joy has been sharing my ‘cooking’ life with you. Sharing the recipes, beautiful Médoc, family stories, my husband’s photography (and the dogs of course!) brings me so much happiness, enthusiasm and fun. Through this journey I have met such amazing, kind, generous, talented, touching and inspiring people. And all of these people are you! So thank you for being there!

2013 will definitely be an exciting year. So much more to share, so many meals to cook as the seasons unfold. I can’t wait to tell you all about it.

Wishing you a beautiful, healthy and bright new year! Mimix

Recipes

Chestnuts pancakes: (serves 4)
150 g/ 1 cup and 1/4 chestnut flour (sifted)
1 egg
50 ml/ 1/4 cup milk
1 tbsp crème fraîche or sour cream
50 ml/ 1/4 cup water
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 pinch of salt
2 shallots, finely sliced
Butter, for frying

To garnish:
350 g/ 3/4 pounds morel mushrooms
4 eggs, poached
Chives (finely chopped)
1 black truffle (shavings – optional. You could use parmesan shavings as an alternative)

The pancakes:
Fry shallots in 1 tsp butter or olive oil in a frying pan until golden. Set aside. In a bowl, mix sifted chestnut flour, baking powder, 1 egg, milk, water, crème fraîche (or sour cream) and salt. Mix well and leave to rest for 30 minutes. In a frying pan, melt 2 tsp butter and pour batter to make individual pancakes, sprinkling a few shallots on each one. Fry approx 1 minute on each side. Set aside and keep warm. (you can make 4 pancakes or a few smaller ones, like I did (see photos). I used a medium-sized cooking ring to shape perfect round pancakes)

The mushrooms:
In a hot pan, fry the morel mushrooms ‘bare’ to dry them out for a 2-3 minutes, then add 1 tsp butter, salt and black pepper and continue frying for 2-3 more minutes. Set aside.

Poached eggs:
In a shallow pan of boiling water, add 2 tsp of vinegar. Prepare your eggs by breaking them into little cups/pots so it’s easier to pour into the boiling water. When the water is boiling, pour in the eggs in different areas (maximum four at a time – or the water temperature will get cooler). Leave them alone, cover with a lid for 3 minutes, then check if they need a bit of ‘pushing and shoving’ to make their form rounder. You can use a large slotted spoon for this. Depending on how well you like your eggs cooked, 3 minutes should complete the task. When ready spoon each egg at a time onto a plate. Set aside.

To assemble:
Place chestnut pancakes on a plate, add the poached egg, a few mushrooms to garnish, finely chopped chives, coarse sea salt and black pepper. Add a few shaving of black truffles (optional).

Roast guinea fowl with chestnuts (serves 4)
1.5 kg/ 3 pounds guinea fowl
A bunch of rosemary
1 lemon (cut in quarters)
Olive oil (to coat the bird)
3 large cloves of garlic
450 g/ 3/4 pounds pre-cooked chestnuts
12-15 pearl onions
Coarse salt and black pepper
240 ml/ 1 cup chicken stock
80 ml/ 1/3 cup armagnac (or any good brandy)

Preheat oven 200°C/ 400°F

Take out the guinea fowl from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking. Rub the bird generously with olive oil. Season with coarse salt and black pepper inside/out. Place the 3 garlic cloves, quartered lemon and rosemary in the cavity. Place the bird on the roasting pan. Cook in a preheated oven 200°C/ 400°F for 1 hour and 15 minutes. If the top gets too brown, cover loosely with foil. 25-30 minutes before the end, add the chestnuts and pearl onions to the pan.
Take the bird out of the oven, set aside on a plate, cover loosely with an aluminium sheet; place the roasting pan (with the chestnuts and onions) on the stove on a high heat. Add half a glass of chicken stock and 60 ml armagnac, reduce for approx. 5 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper. Place guinea fowl on a serving dish along with the gravy and chestnuts. Serve immediately with roast potatoes.

Roast potatoes:
Preheat oven 180°C/350°F
900 g/ 2 pounds roasting potatoes, quartered and peeled if necessary
Sprigs of thyme
Coarse sea salt
60 ml/ 1/4 cup olive oil
Rinse potatoes, slice them in half or quarters depending on size. Place in roasting pan, drizzle with olive oil, sprigs of thyme and coarse sea salt. Mix well and bake for 45 minutes – 1 hour (give the potatoes a good stir halfway) until golden.

Tourtière with apples, prunes & armagnac (serves 6)

Preheat oven 180°C/ 350°F

5 large apples (I used golden apples)
20 pitted prunes
120 ml/ 1/2 cup armagnac + a dew dashes tro sprinkle on filo pastry
250 g/ 1 cup and 1/4 granulated sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tbsp orange blossom water (optional)
120 g/ 1/2 cup butter (melted)
3 tbsp butter – for the caramelized apples
Approx 10 sheets filo pastry

Note: Use a shallow pie/tart pan, approx 26-27 cm – 10-11 inches diameter.

Soak the prunes in 80 ml armagnac – reserve the rest for later. Set aside. Peel the apples and dice them into cubes.
In a frying pan, melt 150 g sugar. Add 3 tbsp butter when the sugar has melted. Add the apples, fry for 5 minutes, then add the prunes (drain them first). Add orange blossom water and cinnamon. Continue frying for 3 more minutes. Add the remaining armagnac and reduce for 2 minutes on a high heat. Set aside and leave to cool on a plate.

Melt 120 g butter. With a pastry brush, butter each filo sheet generously. Spread 4-5 sheets of filo in a tart pan, sprinkling sugar and armagnac on each sheet. Place the apple prune mixture all over. Cover with 4-5 buttered sheets, sprinkling sugar and armagnac on each sheet. Trim off any excess pastry sheet and sprinkle trimmings on top of the ‘tourtière’. You can either arrange trimmings to form a shape of a flower, or create a wavy top (trimmings should be cut into large finger-sized rectangles). Sprinkle with butter and sugar and bake for 25 minutes until top is golden and crispy.

Serve warm with vanilla ice-cream, crème fraîche, or simply on its own!

I have been in a Christmas state of mind since the beginning of December. I can’t believe today is actually Christmas eve, how I wish I had a magic wand to make time stand still – I don’t want this day to be over. I have enjoyed going to Bordeaux and to the markets around Médoc to get specific ingredients on my Christmas cooking list. Unpasteurized delights from the Deruelle cheese store, Drappier champagne from Badie, foie gras and truffles from my local épicerie fine, quails and partridge from my farmer. I have mentioned it once before in one of my posts, but I want to be like Babette in her kitchen (from the movie ‘Babette’s feast’). She chooses all the most exquisite delicacies in French cuisine, cooking wih love in her rustic nordic kitchen. This is the time of year to feast on your favourite food, watch heartwarming family movies like Elf, Miracle on 34th street, Everyone says I love you to name a few… Every Christmas I read Ibsen’s A doll’s house – I get such pleasure reading this play over and over again (and those macaroons!). As for the chocolates, we indulge in the lingots from Leonidas. Milk chocolate with a vanilla-flavoured butter cream filling and praliné – oh yes. It’s been a family favourite ever since I can remember. And let’s not forget the marrons glacés. These little sugar glazed chestnuts are Christmas.

Today, I wanted to share two recipes I always make for Christmas. One is a savoury ‘pâté en croûte’. It’s my Christmas comfort food, so rewarding to make and perfect with a potato salad with mâche. As it requires some time in advance, I always make two so we can enjoy a slice at any time of the day. It’s a lovely starter for a Christmas lunch. The other one is the ‘bûche de Noël’, the Christmas log. In France, it is the traditional Christmas dessert. There are so many versions, and our family’s is the chestnut cream one. It looks fantastic, covered in whipped cream just like snow. I serve it with marrons glacés, and the kids love decorating it with our little collection of log figurines.

Merry Christmas to all of you! Enjoy this precious time with your family and loved one.

Pâté en croûte recipe
Ingredients:
450 g/ 1 pound veal filet (sliced into finger-sized strips)
300 g/ 2/3 pounds pork filet (sliced into finger-sized strips)
1 small onion (coarsely chopped)
1 garlic clove (sliced)
450 ml/ 2 cups white wine
1 star anis
1 pinch of ground nutmeg
1 bay leaf
4 cloves
Salt & black pepper for seasoning
For the farce filling:
250 g/ 1/2 pound good quality sausage meat
150 g/ 1/3 pound thick ham diced into cubes
3 tbsp cognac
For the shortcrust pastry:
500 g/ 4 cups plain flour
250 g/ 1 cup unsalted butter (room temperature)
2 eggs
1/2 glass of water
1 tsp salt
For the gelatin:
240 ml/ 1 cup of chicken broth
1 sheet of gelatin
Two handfuls of unsalted pistachios (shells removed)

I used a rectangular mould (which can open on all sides), 6 cm in depth, 9 cm width and 22 cm in length.

For the meat filling:
Mix the sausage meat, cognac and diced ham together. Leave to marinate 2 hours in the refrigerator.

For the marinade:
Prepare the marinade for the veal and pork. Slice finger size strips of both meats, place in a bowl. Season with salt and black pepper, add sliced onions, garlic, star anis, nutmeg, bay leaf and cloves. Pour the white wine, give it a good stir, cover with cling film and leave in the refrigerator overnight. Stir the ingredients twice a day.

Prepare the shortcrust pastry:
Mix all the ingredients together, start kneading until you get a good soft dough. Make into a ball, cover with cling film and store in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

Gelatin:
Bring the broth to a soft boil, remove from heat. A dd gelatin sheet and 1 tsp Madera wine (optional).

To assemble:

1) Drain the veal/ pork and discard the marinade. Set aside.
2) Roll out dough into a large rectangle. With a knife, try to cut out 2 strips to line the sides of the mould (one width side and one lenth side x 2) and allow a 2 cm overhang. Press the side trips firmly together. Now cut out a base rectangle for the bottom of the mould. Press dough firmly at the bottom together to seal properly.
3) Fill in the bottom with a 1 cm layer of the sausage meat/ham. Sprinkle a few pistachios. Press with a fork to even out the meat and nuts. Add 2 cm layer of the veal/pork meat. Sprinkle with pistachios and press with a fork to even out the meat. Repeat the operation until the paté en croûte is filled. Cut out a cover (with a 2 cm overhang) for the paté en croûte and seal the edges firmly. With the tip of a knife, gently draw leaf-style figures on top of cover. Roll a small piece of aluminium foil and create a little pipe (like a cigarette). Make a small hole in the center of the pâté en croûte, large enough to slide in the aluminium ‘pipe’ (you will be using this ‘pipe’ later on to pour in the gelatin). Brush with egg wash. Bake in pre-heated oven 180°C/ 350°F for 1 hour. Allow to cool.
4) When completely cool, pour gelatin through the ‘pipe’. Take it slow until you feel the pâté en croûte is filled. Set aside till cool and place in refrigerator overnight before serving.

Bûche de Noël à la crème de marrons (Christmas log with chestnut cream)

For the génoise:
3 eggs (separated)
100 g/ 1 cup plain flour (sifted)
100 g/ 1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1 pinch fine salt

Separated the eggs. Whisk egg yolks with sugar until fluffy, add sifted flour and baking powder, mix well. Whisk egg whites till stiff (not too stiff), and gently fold into batter.
Pour batter (about 1.5 cm thick) onto a parchment paper lined (paper should be buttered) baking tray. Bake on 180°C/ 350°F preheated oven for 8 minutes. Leave to cool for 5 minutes and place a moist cloth on top of the génoise to keep it soft. Leave to cool and transfer on a large piece of cling film.

For the filling:
500 g/ 2 cups crème de marrons/chestnut cream (vanilla flavoured – I use Augier)
250 g/ 1 cup unsalted butter (at room temperature)
4-5 chopped marrons glacés/ glazed chestnuts

Mix chestnut cream with butter. You can use electric whisks at a medium speed to create a smooth cream.

For the cream frosting: (just enough to cove rthe log, like snow!)
160 ml/ 2/3 cupWhipping cream (I use double cream)
30 g/ 1/3 cup icing sugar (sifted)

Whisk cream gradually adding icing sugar until stiff.

To assemble:
The génoise should be on a cling film on a flat surface. Trim off the ends so it looks like an even rectangle. Evenly spread the chestnut cream filling all over the génoise. Gently roll the génoise. Slice off gently each end of the roll. Spread the Chantilly whipped cream all over the bûche/log, create small ‘back & forth’ waves with your spatula. Decorate with marrons glacés (glazed chestnuts) – optional.

The wind is blowing in Médoc. It’s one of those unusually cold December months when you wake up to frosted trees and even the dogs don’t fancy going out. The weather (and the ice-cold stone floors) make me feel raw and in need for big shawls, hot cups of tea and gentle music. I find it romantic to sit by the window, watching the bare trees and glazed blue-grey grass. The wintery view opens my appetite to a whole new level. Not only do I want comfort, but color, joy and warmth.

I am fascinated by Russian cuisine, especially during winter. It symbolizes a culture I admire, filled with rich colors and different tastes I appreciate so much. I have always loved a borscht soup, and have fond memories of going to a very unusual restaurant in Hong Kong called ‘Queen’s café’. It was the very old one that closed down decades ago (there are new ones now but the atmosphere is modern and completely different). It was small and dark, the waiters were old Shanghainese men, dressed in white jackets and matching gloves. They were extremely grumpy. Queen’s café served Russian food, like borscht soup, potato salads, marinated chicken wings, nougats and delicious biscuits you could buy at the deli. There was an element of old-school Shanghai, influenced with Russian culture. I loved it. It was like a movie, so authentic and original. It’s one of those unforgettable moments linked with food. Ever since then, borscht soup has a special place in my food memoirs. Years later, during all my pregnancies, borscht was the food I craved most. Some of my favourite Russian places in Paris are ‘La maison du caviar’ (21 Rue Quentin-Bauchart 75008 Paris), Pétrossian (18 Boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg Paris 75007, and the Rachmaninoff conservatory in Paris where they have a very authentic Russian canteen-style restaurant in the basement (complete with a karaoke too!). The one I make at home is also very satisfying. The colour, the sweetness, the acidity that I crave, it’s all there.

Last week, inspired by the chilly air and the Slavic look of the landscape, I wanted to create a small Russian inspired feast, with home-made blinis, salmon, crème fraîche, dill, lots of borscht soup and a succulent beef Stroganoff. I usually make a lot of borscht so I am sure I can keep some for the next day. As for desserts, I served the Sarah Bernardt cakes (see previous post). They are all about Christmas, and it feels like a pleasurable duty to have one after each meal this month!

On another note, we made a few changes to Manger today, making it a bit more accessible and incorporating the new logo and icons, illustrated by the wonderfully talented Anna Bond from Rifle Paper Co. Merci Anna! The logo was inspired by a beautiful ceiling wreath from a nearby château in ruins we discovered this fall (see ‘From quail to quince’). Many thanks to Mr. Ingvi Guðmundsson for helping me with all the technical stuff and putting up the new site. Takk Takk. I am so grateful for working with such talented people!

Borscht soup

Serves 6-8
450 g/1 pound beetroot, peeled and diced (save half a beetroot to grate)
50 g/ 3 tbsp butter
1 small onion (diced)
1 shallot (diced)
1 small leek (diced)
2 small carrots (diced)
1 stick of celery (diced)
1.5 l beef or vegetable stock
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
½ small cabbage, shredded
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 tsp allspice
1 bay leaf
2-3 tbsp cider vinegar
Salt & pepper, for seasoning
Crème fraîche or sour cream, to serve (1 tbsp each)
Large handful of fresh dill, to serve

Prepare all the vegetables. Dice the potatoes, beets (keep one beet for later/grating), carrots, celery and finely chop the onion, shallot and leek. Coarsely shred the cabbage. Set aside.
In a large saucepan, melt the butter on a low heat and fry the onions and shallot for 6-8 minutes. Add all the remaining vegetables, bay leaf, garlic and spices. Continue frying for 5 minutes so they are coated with butter. Add stock, mix gently and bring to a soft boil. Lower heat and simmer for 20 minutes, then add cabbage. Grate remaining beet in soup. Add a bit of water if needed. Simmer for a further 20 minutes until all the vegetables are tender. Add vinegar, salt and pepper. Serve with crème fraîche/sour cream and dill.

Blinis: (makes about 50-60 small blinis)

80 g/ 3/4 cups buckwheat flour
160 g/ 1 1/2 cups plain flour
2 tbsp clarified butter
2 eggs (separated)
1 tsp baking powder
350 ml/ 1 1/2 cups full cream milk
80 g/ 1/3 cup unsalted butter (clarified)
1 tsp salt

For the clarified butter:
Heat unsalted butter on a low heat in a saucepan until melted. Let it simmer until it starts to foam. Skim off the foam and white parts and keep the clear ‘clarified’ butter.

Sift the buckwheat flour, plain flour and baking powder together. Whisk milk, 2 tbsp clarified butter and egg yolks together in another bowl. Mix dry ingredients with egg/ milk mixture, mix gently. Whisk egg white till stiff peaks, and gently fold in to batter.
In a large pan, heat a tbsp clarified butter and fry approx 1 tbsp of batter for each blini. When the blini starts to bubble (under one 1 minute each side), flip over. Serve with crème fraîche/ sour cream, smoked salmon/trout and fresh dill.

Beef Stroganoff

500g-700g/ 1-1&1/2 pound beef filet steak
300 g/ 2/3 pounds button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
1 large onion, finely sliced
2 cloves garlic, ground
30 ml/ 1/8 cup cognac
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp mustard
2 tbsp plain flour (for dusting the beef)
Olive oil
Butter
80ml/1/3 cup crème fraîche or sour cream (you can add less if you prefer)
A large handful of parsley, chopped
Salt & pepper, for seasoning

Slice the beef into thin slices, across the grain, approx. 1cm/0.5inches wide. Dust beef with plain flour, salt and pepper. Set aside.
In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil, fry the onion and garlic on a low heat for 6 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue frying until they turn slightly golden. Set aside.
Scrape off any bits in the pan, add 1 more tbsp of oil, and start frying the beef on a medium heat until all sides are brown. Add the onions, garlic and mushrooms, paprika and mustard. Stir, pour the cognac and let it reduce for 2 minutes. Simmer on a very low heat for 15 minutes (you can add a bit of water if you find the beef too dry). Take off the heat, stir in the crème fraîche or sour cream. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with tagliatelle or rice.