Bordeaux – Part I

Choosing cheese and eggs at Fromagerie Deruelle.

Last Saturday, I strolled in Bordeaux searching for things I can’t find in the country. Don’t get me wrong, I have a very large choice of fine food here in Médoc, but I love the city’s vibe and what it has to offer. Bordeaux is a real gem, studded with ‘épiceries fines‘, ‘caves à vins‘ and ‘chocolatiers‘ in every street corner. The bourgeois flair is mesmerizing. Some cities have a rosy tint, others have shades of gray, but Bordeaux, is well, bordeaux. It’s my favourite colour, from a juicy Chateaubriand, a perfect dress, an elegant glass of wine, Italian shoes and a cashmere scarf – all the things I like.

Goodies at le comptoir Bordelais.

I am starting a little ‘mini-series‘ on my trips to Bordeaux. There is so much to see and visit every time I go to there, so what a better way to start than with food. Whenever I am in town, I have a few incontournables addresses that are on my to-do list.

Fromagerie Deruelle.

Fromagerie Deruelle: Elodie Deruelle opened her fromagerie in April 2011. Why did she open? It was her dream and she chose the location because ‘there’s an excellent bakery opposite‘. With a background in agricultural studies, Elodie spent her formative years farming and worked in Paul Bocuse’s Halle de Lyon before settling in Bordeaux’s booming rue du Pas Saint Georges, right next to the Place Camille Jullian. It’s my favourite part of Bordeaux, as most of the best and original stores are in this area. Elodie is from Bourgogne, so she offers a lot of cheeses from her region, the Brillat-Savarin, l’Epoisses and a big choice of goat’s cheese, which is her favourite type. You will also find extraordinary Saint Marcellin and cervelle de Canut cheeses, as well a an original selection of wines and bread. As soon as I enter her store, the kids immediately beg me for ‘an egg and soldiers with Comté cheese’ dinner, so I always buy a dozen of fresh farm eggs. Her opinion on pasteurized cheeses? ‘Ce n’est pas possible!’ (it is not possible – but she does save a few good quality ones for the pregnant ladies). This fromagerie is beautiful and Elodie is passionate about her work. Fromagerie Deruelle, 66, rue du Pas Saint Georges, 33000 Bordeaux.

Window shopping at Fromagerie Deruelle. Who can resist?

Le comptoir Bordelais: This beautiful old-fashioned ‘épicerie’ is owned by Pierre Baudry, who’s ‘Comptoir Arcachonnais’ (in the Arcachon bay) is very popular with the Cap-Ferret-Archachon crowd. Anything you wish for is granted here, from wines, candy, foie gras… all the local specialities. The entertaining and dynamic team is here to guide you – it will be hard to go home empty-handed. Le comptoir Bordelais, 1 bis, rue des Piliers de Tutelle, 33000 Bordeaux.

Temptations at le comptoir Bordelais.

Maison Servan: This is the gentleman’s épicerie fine where you can have lovely chats with the owner on good eats, Bordeaux, wine and life. I love going there to buy a huge pain Poilâne. He is also a skilled winemaker for various chateaux around Saint-Emilion, and we particularly liked Chateau La Vaisinerie with whom he is the ‘technician’. A sophisticated place to be. Maison Servan, 22 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 33000 Bordeaux.

Thomas Capdeville at Servan.
Amazing hams at Pierre Oteiza.

Pierre Oteiza: This is the holy grail of charcuterie. Pierre Oteiza, from the ‘Vallée des Aldudes’ in France’s Pays Basque, breeds exceptional meat, one of my favourite being the black pig. This is one of their ten stores around France, where you can find all the Oteiza brand products, from hams to pumpkin soup. The store is tiny and magical – I love the Basque black berets and scarves – it’s so farmer chic! Pierre Oteiza, 77 Rue condillac, 33000 Bordeaux.

11 thoughts on “Bordeaux – Part I

  1. Oh hooray! Since you have convinced me that you are indeed the smart one for living in a truly amazing part of the country that is, while not exactly off the beaten track still not as well-known as Provence, I am delighted to learn more about it. Already, if I could have just ONE of these fine establishments in Arles, I would be a happy camper. Will look forward to the rest of the series, Mimi. Merci!

  2. Wow this a truly beautiful blog – with your words and your husbands photos it is really a pleasure to read! I am a Brit currently living in Bordeaux and have enjoyed reading your take on life in the area and most importantly the cuisine that is so good. Thank you!

  3. Ce que vous réalisez toi et ta famille est simplement magique .MERCI !
    Vivre Bordeaux avec cette touche de gourmandise! et de simplicité est magnifique ,c’est tellement toi !BRAVO et continue ,tu nous enchantes !

  4. Thank you for being such a wonderful tour guide for Bordeaux! Your blog makes me wish I took French in high school instead of Spanish! 😉 And I LOVE how you always include pics of your four-legged family members!

    1. Thanks Jessica! I will be doing more ‘little’ guides on Bordeaux, especially all the amazing chocolate stores! As for the doggies, a picture is not a ‘good’ picture unless there’s a dog in it! They make our day! 🙂 Bonne soirée Mimi

  5. Dear Mimi, you are just amazing! I posted pictures from your blog and small story about you at my FB page, you will have more fans now ))) You have inspired me to start my own web-site, hope to set up closer relations in exchanging the life-styles. Good luck to you and keep going! Nuria

  6. Aw. I spent a year living and studying in Bordeaux and I absolutely fell in love with the city and the region. It’s a really special place with friendly people, beautiful architecture…and of course, amazing food! Thanks for sharing these photos of your food shopping experience. It makes me want to book a flight!

  7. Ha! I recognise some places.I am a cheese lover and I’ve been coming back since I first fell in love with Bordeaux 4 years ago. Yes, it IS a special place that stays in your heart.

    I’ve bought some cheese at Fromagerie Deruelle. The staff are friendly, but I think the one in Chatron or Capucin seems to have a wider range.

    I’m so happy to discover your gorgeous blog. I hope we will run into each other one day while shopping for food. It would be lovely!

  8. Mimi, I know there is so much going on with the workshop adventures but I wondered if there has been a Bordeaux – Part 2 and did I miss it? It’s such a joy to read about life in France from your perspective…

    All the best!

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