Life in Médoc

All about Asparagus

by mimithorisson

Asperge et vinaigrette

April is the month for asparagus. They stick out their pretty little heads, as if to see that spring is really here and then they come out in force, taking over market stalls, supermarket shelves, restaurant tables and domestic kitchens. For a precious few weeks they even dominate the conversation in big parts of Europe. I just love the delicate flavor of a superb white asparagus, slightly nutty and bitter with a sweet aftertaste. Forged in darkness, protected from the sun, they have an iridescent pale ivory color with hints of pink and violet. I can’t think of a prettier hue, to me they are like porcelain magic wands found under a rainbow, somewhere out there.

picking2

stacking

mimiasparagus

monsieurbenard

asparagusbox

asparaguschat

gold

Which brings me to the delightful Monsieur & Madame Benard who grow some of the best white asparagus (asperges des Sables des Landes) I’ve ever had. Yesterday morning I was lucky enough to spend some time on their asparagus farm, learning all about asparagus growing and even more importantly, bringing home a basketful. The Benard’s are very lively people, fun to be around and full of pride for their earthy produce and the possibilities they bring to the kitchen. The asparagus looked so inviting laid out on the table, some of them so fine, so delicate, others more robust but more flavorful. We talked about cooking and countless recipes. Other customers pitched in with their ideas, a local doctor with very thick hair said that his favorite was green asparagus with morilles mushrooms, a lady and her husband preferred big white ones with Hollandaise sauce. In the end Astrid (Mme Benard) and I decided on three recipes. My favorite with poached egg and vinaigrette, her favorite wrapped in local smoked trout from Aquitaine and a classic gratin that I thought might please my mother-in-law who has just come to stay with us. Don’t we all want to please our mothers-in-law.

Asparagus really is a regal vegetable (the privilege of kings and their court in days gone by), growing it requires a lot of work and it is always picked by hand. Watching Astrid and her team carefully going over the fields, excavating the asparagus one by one from the sand was very informative and the strenuous efforts behind each and every asparagus make me appreciate it even more. Which is why no part of it should be wasted. As I was leaving Astrid reminded me to use the end bits for a soup. Making that soup is a lovely way to feel thrifty and luxurious at the same time.

I addition to their asparagus endeavours the Benard’s have just started growing apple trees, eight varieties no less. In a fortnight they will be in bloom and in the fall they’ve invited me for the harvest so well be seeing more of them this year.

Merci Astrid! Quel plaisir gourmand!

asparaguswithpoacedegg

Asparagus with vinaigrette & poached egg (serves 4)

For the vinaigrette:

5 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp mustard
1-2 garlic cloves, ground
1 & 1/2 tsp walnut vinegar (alternatively, you can use wine vinegar)
Salt & pepper – for seasoning
Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl.  Stir until the vinaigrette is smooth.

For the poached eggs:


4-6 eggs
1 tbsp white vinegar
1/2 tsp salt

In a shallow pan of boiling water, add 2 tsp of vinegar. Prepare your eggs by breaking them into little cups/pots so it’s easier to pour into the boiling water. When the water is boiling, pour in the eggs in different areas (maximum four at a time – or the water temperature will get cooler). Leave them alone, cover with a lid for 3 minutes, then check if they need a bit of ‘pushing and shoving’ to make their form rounder. You can use a large slotted spoon for this. Depending on how well you like your eggs cooked, 3 minutes should complete the task. When ready spoon each egg at a time onto a plate. Set aside.

For the asparagus:

A bunch of asparagus, depending on size count 4-6 asparagus per person.
A handful of chives (chopped finely)

Wash the asparagus under cool running water and trim away the bottom 1/3 of the stalk. With a vegetable peeler, peel off the rough part (leave the tip intact).

Fill a medium to large saucepan with water, about half way to the top. Add salt and bring to a boil. Add the asparagus and reduce heat slightly – cook for 10 minutes, or until crisp and tender, depending on thickness of asparagus. Drain and place on a serving plate. Place poached egg on top, drizzle with vinaigrette and sprinkle with chives.

asparagusgratin

Gratin of asparagus with cheese béchamel

1 large bunch of fresh asparagus, approx 500-600 g/ 1 -1&1/2 pounds

For the béchamel sauce.

40 g/ 3 tbsp butter
40 g/ 1/3 cup plain flour
350 ml/ 1 & 1/2 cup milk
½ tsp ground nutmeg
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp black pepper
80 g/ 3/4 cup grated Comté cheese (or any of your favourite hard cheese)
80 g/ 3/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
A small handful of fresh breadcrumbs (one slice of bread will do)

Preheat oven 210°C/ 410F

For the béchamel sauce:

In a saucepan, on a medium heat, melt butter and add flour. Whisk until smooth and gradually add milk whisking away. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir until sauce thickens. Off the heat, add grated Comté, parmesan cheese and black pepper, mix well until melted. Set aside.

Wash the asparagus under cool running water and trim away the bottom 1/3 of the stalk. With a vegetable peeler, peel off the rough part (leave the tip intact).

Fill a medium to large saucepan with water, about half way to the top. Add salt and bring to a boil. Add the asparagus and reduce heat slightly – cook for 10 minutes, or until crisp and tender, depending on thickness of asparagus. Drain and place on a buttered oven-proof dish. Pour béchamel sauce over asparagus, drizzle with breadcrumbs. Cook in a preheated oven for 20 minutes, or until golden. You can place dish under the broiler for a couple of minutes towards the end if you prefer (it will brown faster).

asparagustrout

Trout & asparagus rolls (Mme Benard’s favorite recipe – for 4 small rolls)

4 slices of smoked trout, about the size of a palm (alternatively, you can use smoked salmon)
8-10 fine asparagus
Black pepper, for seasoning
Fresh chives, chopped finely

Preheat oven 210°C/ 410F

Wash the asparagus under cool running water and trim away the bottom 1/3 of the stalk. As the asparagus should be quite fine, you don’t need to peel off any hard skin.

Fill a medium to large saucepan with water, about half way to the top. Bring to a boil (do not add salt as the smoked trout is very salty). Add the asparagus and reduce heat slightly – cook for 4 minutes, or until crisp and tender.

Divide/cut asparagus into 3 equally sized pieces. Place three to four pieces diagonally on each slice of smoked trout and roll tightly. Sprinkle with Comté cheese and cook in a preheated oven, on a high rack, for 10 minutes until cheese has melted and slightly golden. Sprinkle with black pepper and finely chopped chives.

asparagussoup

Asparagus soup (serves 4)

400 g/ approx 1 pound asparagus (You can also use Mme Benard’s tip and use leftover peeled coarse ends – if the end result is a bit stringy, just pass the soup through a sieve).
2 small potatoes, peeled
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 litre/ 1 quart vegetable or chicken stock
120 ml/ ½ cup crème fraîche (or sour cream or heavy cream)
Salt & pepper

Chop the asparagus coarsely, keep the tips and set aside. In a pot, add 2 tbsp of olive oil, fry the potatoes and onion for two minutes, add the chopped asparagus (not the tips), stock, salt and pepper, bring to a soft boil and simmer, covered, for 15-20 minutes, until all the vegetables are tender. Towards the end, add the asparagus tips for 4 minutes and remove them – set aside. Transfer soup to a blender and blitz briefly until soup is smooth. Add crème fraîche, reserved asparagus tips, stir and serve immediately. Sprinkle with finely chopped chives.